Some aspects of "Wine and Roses" haven't aged well. The opening credits are cheesy; the Jack Klugman performance is over the top. The reverential treatment of AA feels slightly silly (although I understand it must have been bold to stage a fictional AA meeting in the early 1960s). But none of this really matters, because of Jack Lemmon. He plays Joe Clay, a man at war with himself. Joe is paid to recruit young women to make appearances at cocktail parties; this is part of a business enterprise. The women must wear sequins and deep "V" necks. Disgusted with his own life, Joe distracts himself by wooing a young person, Kirsten; he makes it his project to introduce her to alcohol. (She likes Toblerone, so he gives her a chocolate martini.) Years later, in a codependent, vodka-drenched marriage, Joe tries to save himself. The moments of relapse are almost sickening. The experience of watching the film becomes something like standing near a slow-motion car wreck. Le...